Having taken 24 weeks to get from Belize to Panama, we´re making the return journey in just two, then it's all over.....for now. So, it´s time for El Blog 3.
Taking a break from the buses in Nicaragua, we flew out to Big Corn Island. There we discovered that about half the islanders (Caribbean folks) had the surname of Campbell due, they say, to one Scottish bloke who lived there centuries ago and clearly wasted no time in making his mark. Quite possibly an ancestor of mine. Apparently white babies still pop out now and again due to his 'legacy'....at least that's the story the mothers stick to! Big Corn also wins the prize for best beach name - Sally Peachy Beach. And peachy it indeed was. We also suffered our worst hostel there. It was a run down shack run by a family of what I'd call 'rasta-billies'. Essentially a blend of dreads and dungarees. Walking to our cabin we were harrassed by a massive, mental turkey and once inside it was so manky even the cockroaches were complaining. After Big Corn, we then got the boat to Little Corn, (trying not to think about the fact that it had capsized only weeks before) which was a lovely place but, and it's a big but, it rained almost constantly while we were there. Lovely place but without the sun there ain't a whole lot to do.
Back on the mainland we were feeling rather sun-starved so headed to a gorgeous, almost deserted, beach on the Pacific coast, Playa Gigante. Stunning; as were the claims of our host that drug smuggling and prostitution were rife among her competitors. We didn't get any offers though. The remainder of our time in Nicaragua took us across a lake to the island of Ometepe, formed in a figure of '8' shape by two volcanoes erupting and joining together. From there we had a 10 hour overnight ferry journey to connect with Rio San Juan. This river runs along the Costa Rica border and has an amazing history involving the Spanish conquistadores, Horatio Nelson and others. Most fascinating of all though is that this route may have been used instead of Panama for the trans-ocean canal. In the end Panama was chosen and, just to ensure there would be no competition, the US bought the rights to building any future canal through Nicaragua. Slam dunk.
Our border crossing from Nicaragua was very pleasant - a short and lovely boat trip. Indeed Nicaragua was probably my favourite country and I'll be watching with interest when the elections take place this November and Daniel Ortega tries to retain power over the 2nd poorest nation in all of the Americas (Haiti wins first prize). Watch out for more US influence on that result. Costa Rica was a shock after months of living in pretty undeveloped countries. It was very American and sooooo expensive in comparison to what we´d become accustomed to. English is widely spoken, alcohol prices gave our livers a (slight) break, taxis have meters, buses are rare but comfortable and there's so much choice of food - European cheeses, Ritter Sport chocolate, herbs! We basically scooted down the lovely Pacific coast including a super-fast boat journey where I got wetter than had I been trailing in the water behind it. Didn't dry til the next day!
Our last stop in this lovely country was on an organic farm in a pretty remote part of CR. We were the only people staying there apart from the caretaker, Jaero, and a horse called Billyroo. Getting there was a mission but after buses/taxis/boats we were looking forward to the last leg in a 4x4 over twisty dirt roads. Our hearts sank however when a little, rotund chappy (called Cheppy) pointed, grinning, at a tiny ATV (All Terrain Vehicle, about the size of the tricycle I had as a kid) on which he perched himself, us, two backpacks, two day bags and several bags of groceries that were to sustain us over the next few days. Had Norris McWhirter been around we may just have made it into the Guinness book of records - a bit like stuffing people in a mini or whatever. We visited a small waterfall one day where you could clamber into a wee 'bowl' of water half way down, giving a jacuzzi effect. Having concentrated on how to get in there, I hadn't really planned my exit too well and consequently my hesitation allowed the rushing water to shove me off and tumbling down into the rapids. I emerged about 30 seconds later, intact but knowing how the washing must feel in the machine. Worse though, I then discovered lots of tiny leeches all over me. Yugh. Thought we'd got them all off but discovered one days later. Engorged would be the word. Last time I get all adventurous.
Then we hit Panama, which started ignominiously in David, one of the most miserable places we'd been; and this at the time of their annual fair! They did however have the only existing McPato fast food restaurant - a sleight at McDonald's (Pato is duck in Spanish and Donald is a duck). We did return to the fair on its last day - mad, bustling, noisy place; a mix of loud music, food, drink, shops and the largest pair of bullocks I have ever seen. (It's an agricultural fair at its roots and the animals were easily the best thing there.) We headed for the mountains next and were rewarded with sight of the rare Quetzal, the Mayan bird of paradise. Awesome. We also met a kinkajou, saw howler monkies with babies and even did a gruelling treasure hunt (half bottle of rum reward was sufficient incentive).
Panama is so thin that you can go from the Caribbean coast through cloud forests and mountains to the Pacific in no time at all. We therefore zigged and zagged our way East toward the capital. On the way we stopped at Santa Catalina, a gorgeous beach/surfing town. One highlight for me was watching a group of hermit crabs on the beach (no, I wasnt busy that day), all milling aroung a large, empty shell. Some of the larger ones tried to move it but it was too heavy. Then a bigger crab came along (Grandcrab), had a look then in a second shifted out of his old one and donned this new one. A quick check in the mirror then he was off. This freed his old shell which then was fought over by a few of the bigger crabs (very shellfish bunch). One won and then his shell was free etc etc. After a few minutes of January sale-like madness, all the crabs had traded up and only one sad wee empty shell remained. Fascinating.
Back to the mountains and a town built in a massive volcano crater called El Valle de Anton. Lovely place. Trees, flowers and birdsong everywhere. We visited a gorgeous orchid garden run by the Japanese government (!), went to see the square trees (they were at least trapezoidal) and got ripped off at Macho waterfall. I also went up the sleeping indian girl (the name of one of the peaks surrounding the village - behave!). Finally we reached the zenith of our trip - Panama City. It´s a super cool place with dozens of massive ships lined up to enter the canal, a crumbling/scenic old town and a surprisingly impressive skyscraper skyline. On closer inspection however, about half of these buildings are unfinished and work seems to have ceased. The real highlight though was the canal and the Miraflores locks. Huge container ships, tankers and cruise liners inching their way through, guided by quaint train engines - 4 on each side. Ships are built to just fit the canal; a size called Panamax. There´s just two feet either side to spare. Wow.
Our last two weeks involve about 50 hours of (mostly) buses and boats, punctuated by a stay in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in Costa Rica and the Bay Islands off Honduras. some fabulous snorkelling Then we fly home for a month of partying with friends and family before taking a VW Campervan across Eastern Europe.
Someone´s gotta do it! So, what were the highlights?
Best country - Nicaragua (followed closely by Guatemala, Panama and El Salvador)
Trip highlights - snorkelling off Belize, the Rio Dulce and Antigua in Guatemala, Lake Yojoa in Honduras, Ruta des Flores in El Salvador, Consiguina, Granada and Rio San Juan in Nicaragua, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in Costa Rica and the canal in Panama. There's so many others though......
What did we miss the most - friends, family, curry, decent cheese, London, gigs, footie (me), Royal Wedding (Jo)
Adapting to being home has been pretty easy really...if only I could remember that the loo paper DOES go in the loo here!
Roberto
